$11; 408 Broome St.

Photo: Courtesy of Despana

You’d think that with all the superb conservas lining the shelves at this Spanish-foods importer, you’d find a good tuna bocadillo at the café in the back of the shop, and you would be correct. Actually, you’ll find two. There’s the simple but excellent Bonito consisting of Don Bocarte-brand tuna, piquillo peppers, and tomato ($10.50), and our favorite, the fish-on-fish Pescador: tuna pâté whipped with piquillo and piparra peppers into a spicy orange spread, white anchovies, and a smear of aïoli on crusty Balthazar ciabatta. Get it smooshed in the sandwich press for the full effect.

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