Released: 21/06/10. For more information visit www.subliminalrecords.com
8 Highly Giftable, New Cookbooks by New York Chefs

Illustration: Clara Kirkpatrick
Restaurants may be in flux, but cookbooks are a constant. These eight debuts from New York chefs and restaurateurs function as quarantine-kitchen inspiration and souvenirs of a pre-social-distancing past. They make great gifts, especially when purchased at one of the cityâs essential indie bookstores.

Photo: Courtesy of Publisher
Loring Placeâs Dan Kluger is an inveterate Greenmarketer and a master of textures both purĂ©e-smooth and crunchy-granola. His modular, multicomponent recipes may seem intimidating, but they spare the reader the indignity of the dreaded buried subrecipe, and his âtakeawayâ tips make persuasive arguments for adding vodka to tempura batter, roasting vegetables on a wire rack, and spritzing cruditĂ©s with kombu-orange mist. His first book reveals the secrets of house signatures like the winter-chicories salad (grill the dates) and grandma pizza (fry the garlic).
Restaurant report: Currently open for indoor and outdoor dining, delivery.

Photo: Courtesy of Publisher
Part cookbook, part memoir, Jason Wangâs lively chronicle of his familyâs winding journey from Northwest China to a New York restaurant empire is a tale as personal as it is universal. Wang reveals the backstories of the blockbuster hits his fans know by menu number â A1 (liang pi âcold skin noodlesâ), B1 (stewed pork burger), N1 (spicy cumin lamb hand-ripped noodles) â and describes the cultural collisions, pangs of homesickness, and endless tinkering by his âimpulsive hotheadâ of a father that spawned them.
Restaurant report: XFF branches are gradually reopening for dine-in service, delivery, national noodle-kit shipping.

Photo: Courtesy of Publisher
The Korean-pantry section alone would be worth the price of admission; ditto the stories that Seoul-born, New Yorkâraised Hooni Kim tells about finding his cooking voice. (Spoiler: Kim had never cooked Korean food until he started making the staff meal at Masa where his colleagues assumed he knew what he was doing; half of those dishes ended up on the menu of his first restaurant, Danji.) The ultimate reason to buy this book, though, is the infectious spirit of Kimâs guiding philosophy, i.e., cooking with jung sung, which, as any Korean grandma can tell you, is to cook with heart and devotion.
Restaurant report: Danji is open for takeout and outdoor dining. Kimâs other restaurant, Hanjan, is delivering heat-and-eat meal kits.

Photo: Courtesy of Publisher
Itâs too late to preorder Thanksgiving pies from New Yorkâs No. 1 pie shop, Peteeâs Pie Company. But you can read all about them in Petra âPeteeâ Paredezâs new book and â why not? â make one yourself. In it, the former special-education teacher traces her path to piedom (when her hippie parentsâ Virginia farm went bust, they pivoted to pies), waxes poetic on butter crusts, demystifies pumpkin pie (itâs actually French), and delves deep into the history of Nesselrode. Then there are the recipes: fruit pies, chess pies, cream pies, custard pies â even pre-pie meat pies.
Shop report: Both New York locations have been open for takeout and delivery throughout the pandemic. Thanksgiving pies are available for walk-ins on a first-come-first-served basis.

Photo: Courtesy of Publisher
Self-described accidental restaurateur Donna Lennard recounts the tale of the rough-hewn Noho antiques shop that evolved over a quarter-century into a lifestyle brand with an outpost on Ibiza and a celebrity clientele, many of whom can be found in this bookâs index. More interesting are the up-and-coming chefs who passed through the kitchen en route to their own stardom, making marks on the menu with dishes like radishes in bagna cauda (Jody Williams, 1998), porchetta alla romana (Sara Jenkins, 2000), and primordial kale salad (Ignacio Mattos, 2005).
Restaurant report: Indoor and outdoor dining, delivery.

Photo: Courtesy of Publisher
The premise of Houseman chef-owner Ned Baldwinâs debut cookbook is simple but persuasive: First, master a âbasicâ recipe (he guides you through 20), then let your imagination run wild. Each âbasic,â be it broccoli or beef tongue, is followed by several riffs on the theme, which youâre encouraged to riff on yourself. Baldwin once worked at Prune, and he shares his old boss Gabrielle Hamiltonâs tasteful sensibility and penchant for strong opinions. Some of his: Roast your chicken on the oven floor, pot-roast your beets, and never sear your hanger steak.
Restaurant report: Dine-in service, pickup and delivery, meal kits.

Photo: Courtesy of Publisher
The hundred-year-old landmark and frequent Law & Order set was on its last legs when disgruntled financial analyst Wilson Tang took it over, determined to propel it into the future by preserving its atmospheric past. Here, he shares recipes ranging from the âOG egg rollsâ to a Chinese chopped-cheese dumpling collab with Adidas. But what resonates most is the celebration of Chinatownâs family-run shops, its cultural institutions, and the characters who make the neighborhood an enduring source of pride and inspiration.
Restaurant report: Indoor and outdoor dining, large-format-platter delivery.

Photo: Courtesy of Publisher
As equally cherished as the bar at Bemelmans is the one across Madison Avenue at Sant Ambroeus, where Upper East Siders have squeezed in since 1982 to sip morning cappuccinos, nibble lunchtime tramezzini, swig post-work Negronis, and generally revel in the wondrous ecosystem that is the Italian coffee bar. Here are the story and the secrets, from what makes a good espresso (expert baristas can tell by sight) to whatâs in the biscotti al burro (hard-boiled egg yolks). Restaurant report: All four New York branches are up and running, and a fifth just opened at Brookfield Place.

Photo: Courtesy of Publisher
Matt Sartwell, managing partner at Kitchen Arts & Letters, 1435 Lexington Ave.: âThe Flavor Equation, by Nik Sharma. It rewards on every page. Thereâs always some new piece of information, some new perspective, some new idea. The recipes donât feel like the same old, same old.â

Photo: Courtesy of Publisher
Troy Chatterton, manager at Three Lives & Company, 238 W. 10th St. (temporary location): âGreenfeast, by Nigel Slater. He is a cookâs cook, and he has great taste. This book is filled with good advice, wonderful writing, and unexpected and inspired flavors. Best thing: It is small but chock-full of recipes. A beauty!â

Photo: Courtesy of Publisher
Paige Lipari, owner of Archestratus Books + Foods, 160 Huron St., Greenpoint: âSynergetic Stew: Explorations in Dymaxion Dining is a facsimile of a community cookbook gifted to Buckminster Fuller for his 86th birthday from a myriad of notable friends and colleagues. Recipes are indistinguishable from memories, poems, songs, and architectural attitudes. There is a full ten pages from John Cage on his relaxed macrobiotic diet, and a tip for âWhat to cook when your wife is in Bulgaria: meatloaf.â I desire to give and receive this book many times over.â

Photo: Courtesy of Publisher
Bonnie Slotnick, owner of Bonnie Slotnick Cookbooks, 28 E. 2nd St.: âFor anybody who likes desserts, any book by Maida Heatter. She published books beginning in the â70s, and since her death theyâve come out with a few more compilations. But I have the original ones.â
*A version of this article appears in the November 23, 2020, issue of New York Magazine. Subscribe Now!
Why Paul Bettany Likes That His Uncle Frank Character Is A Smoker

In addition to Paul Bettany, Peter Macdissi, and Sophia Lillis, Uncle Frank sports an absolutely outstanding cast that includes Margot Martindale, Judy Greer, Lois Smith, Steve Zahn, and Stephen Root. The film is arriving on Amazon Prime Video tomorrow, November 25, and stay tuned here on CinemaBlend for more from my interviews!
Grammys 2021: The Weeknd and Bob Dylan Surprisingly Absent From Nominations
During todayâs 2021 Grammy nominations, there were two artists who were surprisingly missing from contention: Bob Dylan nor the Weeknd. The Weekndâs smash hit âBlinding Lightsâ was eligible for nomination, as was his chart-topping album After Hours. Bob Dylanâs remarkable Rough and Rowdy Ways was also released during the eligibility period (September 1, 2019âAugust 31, 2020), with its first single âMurder Most Foulâ reaching No. 1 on Billboardâs Rock Digital Song Sales chart. Since the Grammy nominations require that an artist submit their work for consideration each year, itâs unclear whether either artist did so. For example, Frank Ocean, Drake, Cardi B, and Macklemore have all chosen to withhold music from Grammy consideration in recent years.
When asked about the Weekndâs shutout in an interview with Jem Aswad for Variety, Recording Academy Chair and Interim President/CEO Harvey Mason jr. said, âYâknow, it really just comes down to the voting body that decides.â
Pitchfork has reached out to representatives for the Weeknd, Bob Dylan, and the Recording Academy for comment and more information.
The Weekndâs previous album, Starboy, won the 2018 Grammy Award for Best Urban Contemporary Album. Heâs been nominated for 10 Grammys in his career, winning three awards.
Bob Dylan has won 10 Grammy Awards and received 38 Grammy nominations. He was first nominated for the 1963 Grammy Award for Best Folk Recording for Bob Dylan. A decade later, he won his first Grammy for his work on The Concert for Bangladesh, which won Album of the Year.
Dylan was last nominated for the 2018 Grammy Award for Best Traditional Pop Vocal Album for Triplicate. He most recently won Grammy Awards in 2007 for Best Solo Rock Vocal Performance (âSomeday Babyâ) and Best Contemporary Folk/Americana Album (Modern Times).
Teena Marie – Lead Me On [Bass Cover]
An 80’s song from the movie Top Gun, “Lead Me On” by Teena Marie. If you like old school stuff, this is for you! And the bass line is really fun to play.
HM đ Mario Bauza & Afro-Cuban Jazz Orchestra – Biri Bi Kum Bi (Canta: Graciela)
đ” MelodĂa con “Alma y Sentimiento” đŒđ¶
#MelodiaConAlmaySentimiento
Casi casi el ultimo de sus producciones del gigante Mario Bauza, realizada en 1993 antes de su muerte, pero que salio en 1994, junto a sus Afro-Cuban Jazz Orchestra y en la voz potente de la gran Graciela, el tema Biri Bi Kum Bi que fuera composicion de Antar Daly, Latin Jazz del bueno, vayaaa..!!
Fela Kuti – Yellow Fever
Different different fever na him dey
Different different fever na him dey
Different different fever na him dey
Different different fever na him dey
Malaria fever nko? (e dey!)
Jaundice fever nko? (e dey!)
Hay fever nko? (e dey!)
Influenza fever nko? (e dey!)
Inflation fever nko? (e dey!)
Freedom fever nko? (e dey!)
Yellow fever nko? (e dey!)
[Chorus]
Na him dey bring the matter now e dey!
Yellow fever nko? (ee dey!)
[Chorus]
Na him dey bring the matter now e dey!
say tell them make them hear (You say!)
All fever na sickness (You say!)
Original sickness (You say!)
Hay fever na sickness (You say!)
Original sickness (You say!)
Malaria na sickness (You say!)
Original sickness (You say!)
Jaundice na sickness (You say!)
Original sickness (You say!)
Influenza na sickness (You say!)
Original sickness (You say!)
Inflation na sickness (You say!)
Original sickness (You say!)
Freedom na sickness (You say!)
Original sickness (You say!)
Yellow fever nko? (You say!)
[Chorus]
Original and artificial e dey!
Yellow fever nko? (You say!)
One more…
[Chorus]
Original and artificial e dey!
Bom bom bom, tell me now…
Original catch you
Your eye go yellow
Your yansh go yellow
Your face go yellow
Your body go weak
I say but later if you no die inside
The yellow go fade away
Artificial catch you
You be man or woman
Na you go catch am yourself
Na your money go do am for you
You go yellow pass yellow
You go catch moustache for face
You go get your double colour
Your yansh go black like coal
You self go think say you dey fine
Who say you fine?
[Chorus]
Na lie, you no fine at all!
At all, na lie!
My sister, who say you fine?
[Chorus]
Na lie, you no fine at all!
At all, na lie!
Yellow fever
[Chorus]
You dey bleach, o you dey bleach!
You dey bleach, o you dey bleach
African mother
You dey bleach, o you dey bleach
Sissi wey dey go
Yellow fever
Stupid thing
Yeye thing
Fucking thing
Ugly thing
Yellow fever
You dey bleach, o you dey bleach
African mother
You dey bleach, o you dey bleach
Sissi wey dey go
Yellow fever
Now to the underground spiritual game
Underground where dey down for school
Over there for school, yes
Where dey go say: teacher
Oya!
[Chorus]
Teacher!
Who steal my bleaching?
My precious bleaching?
I buy am for shopping
For forty naira
How I go yellow?
How I go fine now?
I go die o
I go die o
I go die o
According to complaint
Complaint must get answer
I beg please, help me help teacher
Oya, foolish
Oya!
[Chorus]
Foolish!
Who steal your bleaching?
Your precious bleaching?
You buy am for shopping
For forty naira
You self wan yellow
How you go fine now?
Your face go yellow
Your yansh go black
Your mustache go show
Your skin go scatter
You go die o
You go die o
You go die o
You go die o
[Chorus]
You dey bleach, o you dey bleach!
You dey bleach, o you dey bleach
African mother
You dey bleach, o you dey bleach
Sissi wey dey go
Yellow fever
Stupid thing
Yeye thing
Fucking thing
Ugly thing
Yellow fever
You dey bleach, o you dey bleach
African mother
You dey bleach, o you dey bleach
Sissi wey dey go
Yellow fever
6 Local Chile Oils That Could Make Anything Taste Great

Milu Chili Crisp.
Photo: Melissa Hom
With e-commerce gaining in importance for struggling restaurants, more New York chefs are making and shipping their own Chinese-style chile oils â many inspired by the irresistible crunchy texture and cult popularity of Guizhou Provinceâs Lao Gan Ma Spicy Chili Crisp. A look at the local crop, all perfectly suited for rice-drizzling and stocking-stuffing
Before she began working on the fast-casual Chinese restaurant Milu and its pandemic-friendly retail pantry, chef Connie Chung had limited experience with the whole chili-crisp phenomenon. But once she started developing her house version, she aimed for something more savory than just spicy. Mission accomplished, with two distinguishing characteristics: the salty blast of fermented black beans and an umami boost from dried-shiitake-mushroom powder.

Photo: Melissa Hom
As befits the owner of a culinary lab, David Chang has long dabbled in packaged goods, from chickpea miso to ssĂ€m sauce. His new Chili Crunch pays homage to both Lao Gan Ma and Mexicoâs salsa macha and is almost pure crunch, with a top layer of oil about as thin as what youâd find in a jar of natural peanut butter. In addition to the expected chiles and crispy garlic and shallots, thereâs coconut sugar, yeast extract, and seaweed. But none of the chefâs beloved MSG â the domestic market isnât quite ready, in his opinion.

Photo: Melissa Hom
Name notwithstanding, 886 owner Eric Sze considers this stuff less of a chile oil and more of a vegan XO sauce inspired by Taiwanese sha-cha sauce, which itself is derived from Southeast Asian satĂ© sauce. Whatever you call it, itâs on the hot side, with a plush texture that bucks the crunchy trend. (Rather than fry his alliums to a crisp, he confits them with spices.) Sze likes to substitute it for butter or olive oil in sauces and even uses it to make spaghetti aglio e olio.

Photo: Melissa Hom
Chef Lucas Sin is not new to the chile-oil biz, having started selling a spicy vinegar-laced version two years ago. But now, in an effort to âintroduce more diversity into the chile-oil landscape,â he offers a gift-boxed limited-edition sauce thatâs milder and more aromatic â and less chunky â than the original. The name references the ingredients, which include black Urfa chiles, charred onions, and black-sesame oil. Sin uses it to finish soups, as the sesame flavor blooms when it hits hot liquid.

Photo: Melissa Hom
Mr. Bingâs origin story is not unlike the one that led Lao Gan Maâs founder Tao Huabi to fame and fortune (chili-crisp scholars will recall she slung noodles before she jarred chile oil). Likewise, Mr. Bing partner Brian Goldberg started out selling the Beijing-style stuffed crĂȘpes called jianbing, a.k.a. bings. People liked Mr. Bingâs bings well enough, but they liked the chile sauce that came with them more. Now, having closed his restaurants, Goldbergâs focus is entirely on condiments, particularly Chili Crisp. The orangey-brown sludge is nice and thick, like rocky beach sand, and a little sweet.

Photo: Melissa Hom
When Alex Sorenson started marketing his version of chile oil, he was still cooking professionally in New York. Since then, heâs left the restaurant world (and the city) to focus on the New Jerseyâmade brand, which he flavors with chile flakes, Sichuan peppercorns, ginger, star anise, and black cardamom, among other proprietary spices. The inspiration came at lunch at the Singapore restaurant Old Chengdu in the form of a dish called mouthwatering chicken. âI basically drank the bowl,â he says.

*A version of this article appears in the November 23, 2020, issue of New York Magazine. Subscribe Now!
















































